The whole point of this project is, of course, the controls. To get the feel of a genuine arcade joystick in your hand, to spin a trackball madly across the screen dodging laser beams, to slam your hand down a hundred times a minute on the fire button trying to do unto them before they do unto you. Arcade controls can be gotten from at least four different sources that I know of. Arcade supply houses, scavenging parts from old arcade equipment, building your own from scratch, or (more recently) pre-made components from vendors that you can plug into your project.
Buttons | |
Dance Pads | |
Joysticks | |
Pinball Controls | |
Spinners | |
Star Wars type yokes | |
Steering Wheels | |
Trackballs |
Buttons
There are two main variations of arcade
buttons, the microswitch,
and the leaf
design. The leaf design is generally accepted as the better feeling
button, but is harder to maintain. The mechanism beneath the button can
get out of alignment, resulting in dead buttons, and is difficult to re-align.
The microswitch style buttons have a slightly stiffer feel than leaf buttons,
but are less prone to dead button syndrome. Microswitch buttons also
make a click sound every time they are pressed, while leaf buttons do not.
It is also more difficult to find leaf style buttons anymore. Happ
Controls has a wide selection of microswitch arcade buttons as do Ultimarc,
while some people have reported being able to obtain leaf buttons from
Wico.
There are also two different kinds of microswitch pushbuttons - vertical, and horizontal. Usually you'll find horizontal, but vertical pushbuttons are out there too. Which to use? This message from matt(v) convinces me horizontal is the way to go. A pushbutton is made of two pieces of plastic, barrel and plunger (these are just my descriptions of the parts, don't go asking an arcade operator for a replacement plunger, you'll look like a fool) Anyway the barrel clips inside the plunger and has two plastic prongs sticking out the bottom. One of these prongs is in contact with the actuator on the microswitch . When you push the pushbutton the barrel moves down and closes the switch, here is where the difference between the two switch orientations comes in. For a horizontal microswitch the prong off the bottom of the plunger pushes straight down on top of it, I guess if you hit the button with a hammer you could cause some damage to the microswitch below but for the most part this arrangement seems to work well. In the case of a vertical microswitch
the prong on the bottom of the plunger is cut off at an angle (narrow at
the bottom and wide at the top), when the top of the plunger is pressed
the prong slides past the microswitch and activates it that way. This is
susposed to be a good thing as no matter how hard you press the button
you cannot damage the microswitch however what usualy happens is:
|
Joysticks
Overview
There are so many different models of joysticks that discussing a preference with someone is almost like a religious debate. We'll let you decide which one's the best, but there are several factors to consider. This discusses mostly Happ Controls joysticks, but similar sticks are often available from Wico. Ultimarc also sell a range of joysticks which they reckon are specifically geared towards emulation and all have a mechanical 4-8 way switchover, which have been getting good comments from the BYOAC community. Aside from the information here, joysticks are a frequent topic of conversation in the message boards. |
Directions
|
Style
|
Switches(?)
|
49-Way Joystick (The bulk of this information taken from a posting by Ray on the message board)The 49-way joystick is meant to mimic an analog joystick. An example of a game it is used in is Sinistar. Each axis has 6 LED's and detectors:
+3
+2
+1
0 (center...no LED/detector)
-1
-2
-3Since there are two directions, you have 49 possible positions (7x7). Deflecting the joystick interupts the various detectors so the game board knows how far you've pushed the stick. The game then interprets this however it wants (pseudo analog signal)
Two options to interface to a PC: 1. Write a driver to remap these inputs as key inputs to an analog input (ouch)! 2. Do some PIC programming (with support logic) to make the digital inputs to an analog output that is suitable for the PC game port.
Obviously, this is not an ideal joystick to use.
Happs Ultimate Joystick The Happs Ultimate specs:Exploded mounting view.
- Spring return to center
- Microswitch
- Adjustable shaft length for metal or wood mounting
- Available: 8-way, 4-way, 2-way
- Bat shaped handle
Messages in the 9/10/99 message archive about Ultimate joysticks: 344, 351, 371,
Comments
There are at least two reviews on the reviews page proclaiming the ultimate is not the joystick to use. Review 1, review 2.
Happs Super Joystick The Happs Super specs:Exploded mounting view.
- Microswitch
- Spring return to center
- Their "strongest" joystick
- 4-way / 8-way switchable
- Adjustable shaft length for metal or wood mounting
- Bat shaped handle
Messages in the 9/10/99 message archive about super joysticks: 157, 358, 611, 629, 746, 819, 824, 939, 942.
Comments
Misato-San: A common problem is that diagnol movements are not registered even close to consistently. On some cabinets they don't work at all. In any case, I was wondering how to fix this.
matt(v): If you look at the microswitches you will see that there is a metal lever on it. If you bend the end of this lever outward on all four of the switches it makes the diagonals more responsive. You don't want to bend them too much or they get so responsive you can't move anywhere EXCEPT diagonals.
Some comments from folks with 3/4" wood control panels that the shaft on the Super Joystick is a bit short. Suggestions have been to esponsive you can't move anywhere EXCEPT diagonals.
Brian: I've got mine in a 3/4" particle board control panel, but in order to make them stick through the panel high enough I routered the area where the joysticks go until there was only .25" thick wood. This works great and I really like the height. I'm not worried about the heavy play breaking the wood since I've got plexiglass on the top too and that gives it even more strength.
Jim M: I mounted my Super 8's on the under side of 3/4" plywood and have 1/8" plxyglass glass on top of the wood. From the plexyglass to the top of the ball on the super 8's is (aprox) 2.5". It may to to short for most people but it seems about normal to me. The super 8's come with to shaft sleeves one for metal and one for plywood control panel. I think the one for metal is about 1/4" shorter than the one for wood......
By most accounts, the Super-8 joysticks are the favorite joysticks to use. My cabinet will be using Happ Super-8 joysticks.
Happs Universal Joystick The Happs Universal specs:Exploded mounting view.
- "Universal mounting on wood/metal" (shaft length?)
- 4-way / 8-way switchable
- Low profile knob (bat shaped)
- Microswitch
Comments
Happs 12-position Rotary Switch Joystick The Happs Rotary specs:Exploded mounting view.
- 12-position rotary switch ("Ikari warrior type")
- 8-way microswitch (Joystick directions up/down/etc)
- Bat shaped handle
Messages in the 9/10/99 message archive about rotary joysticks: 197, 199, 246, 247, a huge thread starting with 928, and 973.
Comments on the rotary switch interface
Happ Controls puts both the 12-position rotary switch joystick (50-5618-00) and optical rotary joystick (50-5619-00) under one category. They are, in fact, two separate products. This makes discussions on the joysticks a bit confusing. They accomplish similar goals - not only being able to move the joystick up/down, left/right, but also to be able to twist/rotate the joystick for games that require it (such as Ikari Warrior). The rotary switch accomplishes this via a 12 position rotary switch mounted underneath the regular joystick controls. The optical accomplishes this via an optical interface. Compare the two figures below.
Several folks have reported great success interfacing the rotary switch joysticks to Druin's SNK LS-30 Rotary Joystick to MAME Interface.
Happs Optical Rotary Joystick The Happs Optical Rotary specs:Exploded mounting view.
- Optical rotary interface
- 8-way microswitch (Joystick directions up/down/etc)
- Bat shaped handle
Messages in the 9/10/99 message archive about rotary joysticks: 197, 199, 246, 247, a huge thread starting with 928, and 973.
Comments on the optical interface
Happ Controls puts both the 12-position rotary switch joystick (50-5618-00) and optical rotary joystick (50-5619-00) under one category. They are, in fact, two separate products. This makes discussions on the joysticks a bit confusing. They accomplish similar goals - not only being able to move the joystick up/down, left/right, but also to be able to twist/rotate the joystick for games that require it (such as Ikari Warrior). The rotary switch accomplishes this via a 12 position rotary switch mounted underneath the regular joystick controls. The optical accomplishes this via an optical interface. Compare the two figures in the section above.
Torgo: The folks at Happ have assured me that their optical rotating joysticks can be connected to a pc using the trackball interface kit (either the serial or USB version). After speaking with Happ tech support some more and with information gleaned from other folks, you only need one serial (not USB) trackball interface for two rotary joysticks. Contrary to initial reports from Happ, you do not need to splice any wires together. The serial interface comes with everything you need, ready to go (except the power supply which they also told me I would not need, but, in fact, you absolutely do). You don't need to know anything about what each wire/pin does, as you just hook everything together with the wire harness that comes with plastic connectors pre-connected to the ends of all the wires. The picture below makes it crystal clear:
It is extremely easy to set up, and only takes about 15-20 seconds to make all the necessary connections - the whole thing is plug-and-play. In conjunction with Optimame, This setup is incredibly cool. Two player, authentically controlled Heavy Barrel, in my home absolutely rocks!
Happs Perfect 360 Joystick The Happs Perfect 360 specs:
- Photo-electronic switching instead of conventional switches
- Precise 45° and 90° 4-way operation
- 4-way and 8-way
- Conversion kit available for Ultimate & Super joysticks
CommentsMarlin: Since it is controlled via optical sensors rather than microswitches, it only contains a single pin for the U/D/L/R directions, plus a pin for +5V and a ground pin. My question is, how do I wire the single pins to my keyboard matrix? Do I just solder both the + and - wires to the same pin?
Ryan Osborn: I don't know exactly how the Perfect 360 sticks operate, but with only one lead per direction you'll end up seeing the individual leads go 'active' for their respective directions. This 'active' signal will either be high (~5 volts) or low (~0 volts). The JAMMA standard is for the leads to be pulled low, so I'd guess you'll normally see ~5 volts on each lead and then ~0 volts to indicate the direction. You'll need to use these active signals to drive a switch that will complete a circuit between two of your keyboard decoder's contacts. Go to the PC2JAMMA page and look through the plans. You'll find the circuit you need there (for active low). If the 360 provides a high active signal you can use the same circuit but leave out the inverter (7404).
Ultimarc T-Stik, J-Stik, E-Stik Ultimarc have a range of joysticks which have been designed with emulation in mind. They are made by the two top manufacturers of Arcade controls, but tailored to their specs.
The main design brief was that for a true 4-8 way switchover, a mechanical restrictor plate is the only way to go, and this must be adjustable easily, for example through the coin door. Limit plates provide a true 4-way feel, rather than simply preventing two switches from being hit in the corners, (ie by reversing an actuator) because you can "slide" the stick across the diagonals.
T-Stik is a small-angle high spring rate stick with a neat "toggle switch" 4-8 way changeover.
J-Stik is a ball or oval-topped Japanese stick with a rotating 4-8 way limit plate.
E-Stik (easy-mount) is a single-hole mount stick similar to the Happ universal but can be adjusted 4-8 way without undoing screws.
Build Your Own Trigger Grip Joystick Gaming Technology Xtreme put up a tutorial on how to build your own trigger grip arcade joystick from a Raider Pro flight stick and a Happ Controls Competition 4 way or 8 way joystick.
Trackballs
|
Steering Wheel Miscellaneous Steering Wheel links The first steering wheel setup I’ve seen is from Thrustmaster – it plugs into the joystick port. They have a variety of designs, including rudder pedals on one model. Happ Controls has a variety of steering wheel/pedal products as well (found in their print catalog, not online). However, I have not heard of anyone interfacing them to a PC. Happ Controls sells a PC interface kit which apparently will interface their steering wheels to a pc, see below for more information. Also, check out the Oscar steering wheel interface a few links down. My hands down favorite right now is the Microsoft Sidewinder steering wheel, but I haven't tried the Oscar yet :)
Wally's World is gone again. :( I'm looking for a mirror. This update dated 7/23/02. If you think too long has gone by without this being updated please feel free to holler at me :)...
Dann's Detachable Steering Wheel
A guy named Dann emailed me that he had come up with plans for an "almost instant detachable wheel." Picture your arcade cabinet running all your games, and then pulling a steering wheel out of the coin door, hooking it up, and racing your brains out . . . Awesome! Dann says it took him roughly an hour to put this together! Here's the page!
Cletus pointed out yet another site to me for building a steering wheel control. Lew's Wheels is an extremely detailed site, very well put together, great pictures. He has plans for wheels, shifters, pedals, clutches, etc. How deep into it do you want to get? :) Thanks Cletus!
Oscar Steering Wheel Controller
Oscar's Spinners branched out to steering wheel controls as well. From their web page:
The SWC is not a spinner adapter, but rather constructed around a rigid housing and is a brand new design that was developed after studying different arcade steering wheels. The construction of this housing is heavier and more solid than the original arcade ones that were used as a model.
- Designed to fit a Happ Controls steering wheel with a 3-hole center cap.
- Hardened alloy steel shaft
- Dual bearings
- Custom encoder wheel
- Continuous 360 degree rotation
- Hardware is included to mount a Happ Controls steering wheel
- Optional mini-wheel (6” diameter) is available from OSCAR
- Serial – PS/2 version available now, Opti-Pac+ version will be available shortly
- Dual steering wheels can utilize a single port, same as the Model 1 OSCAR
The SWC comes complete with housing, encoder, & mounting plate. It does not include a Happ Controls steering wheel.The Mini-Wheel is a natural finish all metal wheel. It is perfect for compact control panels or where space-saving is necessary.
Check out their web site for more information!
Star Wars type yokes The first yoke on the scene was the TwistyGrip build it yourself model. Twistygrip was purchased by CustomArcade, now defunct. The TwistyGrip originator has a web site you can visit for more information. More information on the TwistyGrip can also be found on our Alternatives page. The second example of a yoke that I laid eyes is a home-built control system from Joey Holman. Joey's project has a page here and is worth a look. The yoke is incredible and I wish he'd consider selling them :)
Finally, Jude submitted an amazing writeup on hacking a genuine StarWars yoke and hooking it to a PC. Amazing!