Opps... missed a few more tips...

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: : Opps... forgot some more tips... : 1) Center the plexi on the panel and clamp down : 2) Draw small dots with perm. Marker where the : 4 bolt holes will go. : 3) Drill a single bolt hole... then bolt it together lightly. Repeat this for all 4 bolts. : Since the bolts are in place and are holding the plexi... you wont have to worry about the clamp slipping and your other holes not lineing up correctly. : 4) Mark dots for all other holes... and begin cutting them. If your hole mesurments were correct and with room for error (wandering bit syndrome), everything should be just fine. A small bit of sanding can fix a somewhat off centered hole problem. : Good Luck : ) : : : : Yes, I did just that. I dirlled holes in the control panel, then C-clamped the lexan between my control panel and another piece of MDF and drilled away. I did not go in reverse or anything like that. Also, I used my wood-boring spade bit (1 1/8" for the buttons.) : : : I tested it on a spare piece first to make sure it wouldn't crack or anything and it didn't. Please keep in mind that this happeded over a year ago, so I May be forgetting some details. I'd hate for you to trash your lexan based on mu advise! : : : To cut the lexan, I used a $3 scoring tool, and scored it until my hand nearly fell off! Then I broke it along the score. Because of the layout of my CP, I did not have to clean up the edges much. I used Plexiglas as my tabletop, and to clean it and round the corners, I used a Dremel. : : : I would bet that you can use a table saw -- provided you have a correct saw blade -- probably something with small teeth. One problem with cutting too slow, is that the lexan/plexi will heat up and melt, so watch for that. : : : Good luck! : : Good advice... and to add to it... yes, you can use a Table saw to cut Plexi. I used the standard blade it came with... but since the blade is spinning so fast... it dosnt seem to matter that the teeth are kinda far appart. You must however go forward really slow, and keep downward pressure near the blade so that the plexi dosnt leave the tables surface and jump arround. A sudden jerk upward or downwards could easily crack the plexi. Also note that small hot plexi fragments will be flying everywhere... so prepare for a nice mess! : ) : : Sometimes, the edges are a little rough. Nothing a small bit of sanding cant handle though : ) Try a test piece first to see if you can handle it. Also... make sure to go nice and Slow (better edge results, and no cracking). : : Also, I did simular with the hole drilling. As long as the piece is clamped down well... it shouldnt break at all. I suggest drilling at high speed... but pushing down very slowly. The plexi will sorta melt the hole, which is much safer and prevents cracking. Easily scrape the melted bump of plexi off with a blade or fingernail while its cooling. : : I also suggest the wood boaring blades (cheap and work well and fast with wood)... but standard drill bits work fine too. : : Sincerely, : : Steve : : : : : : : When I did my cocktail CPs with Lexan, I first drilled the holes into my MDF, then clamped the lexan to that and drilled the lexan. That way my holes were sure to line up. : : : : Did you drill from the underside of the panel then, first going through the holes in the MDF and then into the Lexan? : : : : I've heard some people recommend that Lexan should be drilled using a bit in reverse, and others say that it should be drilled using the bit rotating normally, but slower than for wood. What did you use? : : : : D'you know if Lexan can be cut with a table saw?

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