These are links to pics of various types of adaptors and any that are for sale will have a price next to them. I've never liked the prefab adaptors that have been around for years. Most of them constrict the traces on one or more lines & do not allow you to ease the current draw as needed, so I've always made my own hardwire versions whereby I could control the adaptor rather than adjusting the power supply everytime that a board was changed and I like having a completely repairable adaptor should something ever go wrong with it. Being able to control I/O lines easily is another plus to them,e.g., the pads that need to be toggled low for cocktail cab use, or in simply rerouting power lines to points that really need them, such as with the Galaga where not only is the edge connector fed with 5 volts, but the video bd & CPU boost connector are fed, also.
The most important thing to remember when making your own adaptors is to start with a plain fingerboard that utilizes wide traces. You don't want to start off with idiotproofed fingerboards that are labeled on-board when etched because they put restrictions on all current paths. If you want the positions numbered or a pinout right on the fingerbd to idiotproof it, do it with white adhesive tape, or just plain scotch tape, and a fine point Sharpie & after it is finished & tested you can remove it. You need to avoid same side boards... ones where all your wires will go on the top side... for the same reason of trace restriction and this type also usually has circular pads to solder the wires to, another thing to avoid. Back in the 80's these were used in gray area gaming machines & the trouble with them was that the circular pads give you a place to start peeling the trace off the board in addition to being a current limiter. Same side with pads all on one side made the harness act as a handle to just rip up & away from the board... which happened frequently on the dark locations that these machines were set on.