Checked the EPROMS...

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: I checked the EPROMS as you suggested and they were all at about 4.74 Volts. But I think this machine might have some major problems. You've already been a huge help, but if you're interested I put some pictures up showing some of the problems. : Even busted, it's kind of fun to have, I definitely won't be guttin' it out any time soon. Think I'll have to bust out the power tools and maybe build a similar reproduction. : Thanks a lot, Tim : -Mark : www.eboard.com/lindner24 : : Good idea to keep it. Check out the price on this one: : : http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=385567529 : : Heheh, the only thing that will zap you is the monitor and the AC coming in from the wall. Nothing on the main PCB is powerfull enough to zap you. I lick my PCB's all the time while they're on (no, not really). : : Just as a quick test to see if it's the power supply, pick an EPROM on the top PCB (the one with the stickers over the windows). You'll see a notch on one end of the chip. If you were holding the board so that the notch were facing north, the upper-right most pin is +5 and the lower-left most pin is ground. Put your volt meter on the ~20volts DC range and put the red lead on the +5 pin and the black lead on the ground pin. If you don't get a reading of close to 5.00 volts, then your power supply is the culprit. The power supply on those Taito games are all dying nowadays, they're so old. : : Tim : : : : : : : I went to try re-seating everything, but before that, I thought I would give it one more try. Now the credits won't register... very frustrating. I then tried re-seating most everyting with no luck. I don't really know how to go about cleaning the connectors. I do have a volt meter, but I'm not very experienced with it (I mainly use it for checking continuity on old atari joysticks and stuff). I think I'm in a little over my head on this one(more like a lot). And I'm very afraid of getting zapped poking around in there. : : : : : : I think I will keep it as-is for a while though, until I can find someone to take a look at it. I will probably start from scratch and build my own cabinet for a MAME project. : : : By the way, I live in the Minneapolis area... a long drive from California. : : : Thanks for help and advice : : : : : : : : : Elevator Action is definitely a game worth restoring. The problem you descibe sounds like a fault in the PCB. Try re-seating/cleaning the pins on all the socketed PCB's. Check all the ribbon cables. Measure the +5 voltage at a chip on each of the boards to make sure it's almost exactly +5v. If all these things check out and the problem still happens, it's most likely a component failure on the PCB. A replacement PCB can be had for $40-50. : : : : If you decide that you must have a MAME cabinet, sell the Elevator Action and use the funds to buy a generic cabinet. : : : : If you're in Northern California, I'll buy the EA from you. : : : : Tim : : : : : : : : : I recently purchased a semi-working Elevator Action Upright. (At goodwill, for $55) The games problem... : : : : : Seems to function normally until you start the game. : : : : : Right after "Otto" slides down the rope, he and the bad guys all "double up". And there is some other eradic action, but he is able to shoot, jump and move. Wondering if this might be a monitor or board problem? And easily fixable? : : : : : My Problem... Should I gut it out and make a Mame cabinet or try to restore/fix it. I don't know how rare this game is. I really want a Mame cabinet :) : : : : : I can't make up my mind. : : : : : Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks : : : : :

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