Here is my delima...I don't have anymore room on my control panel for the twisty spinner that I ordered today...(you can look at my cabinet at http://home.sprintmail.com/~voodoochile/ these are the before picture. It hasn't change much other than I built a new control panel...2 sticks 4 buttons each player and a track ball in the middle)...Any Ideas on how to make this Modular...So maybe I can connect it to the front-right of the cabinet for when I am playing TRON and Disk-o-TRON (my two favorites) Any ideas would we welcomed and in the nexted couple of days I should have the After pics up. 

Ray 

Is the spinner enclosed? If it is why not just put those rubber things used to keep things from sliding to raise it above the trackball (or the right side's four buttons)? 
I've seen this done on somebody's project to use the spinner on their wingman warior joystick. 

I will be putting a page up in the next couple of days from somone whose project had exactly this problem, and his impressive way of solving it. I can't show you now because the html isn't done yet. :) 

--- saint 

:) 

In the Beginning, there was Atari... And Atari saw that it was good, and created Pong.. And the vast company with all it's wisdom looked down upon thee and said, "Be fruitful and multiple", and they did as multiple to almost one in every home.. And clones went forth and covered the earth... But there was darkness upon the earth, upon fell Nintendo, then Sega, then Playstations... And the people lost interest in thy great creator, and soon the phantom debt brought in the great flood that lasted for nearly 40 months. .. And there was despair amongest the people.. They cried, "Is this all that thou hast given us?, Are we doomed to an eternal never ending saga of 3d fighting games?" ... And the Angel called Dave riding on the great white Internet horse descended down upon the earth, and gaveth our most precision gift unto thee.. MAME.... And the people were blessed once again, however they fear the comming of the dark one who will return once again to claim the land that thou hast lost, and the people were in fear that the beginning was the end as we know it... (to be continued) 

It must be that Y2K bug going around!! 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

If you read Richard's post in your best Charleton Heaston voice its so powerful...I can hear the music from 2001 playing in the distance...I can only add When Dave's site was crusified (I really really need spell chheck:0) Donkey Kong Wept... 
 
 

Ray 

Your right on the Charleton Heaston voice.. 

-Richard Ragon 

playing around with my standard PAL-TV (with no NTSC-ability) I found that the NTSC modes in cabmame with y-resolution > 224 sync. (possibly because of they run at ~57Hz not on 60Hz and the PAL-TV can handle that). So you can get a "real" arcade monitor -in the way of an old PAL-TV- (for RGB with SCART) just for around 50$ :) (in Euro-land). For a VGAtoSCART plug without elektronics look over http://elvis.inf.tu-dresden.de/~koehler/tv_50hz_svga/index.html (but remember -do it on your own risk-) 

I'm getting ready to start my second joystick project, this time including a trackball into the mix. The range only seems to include a $15 large plastic trackball mouse or a $150 arcade quality Happs. I'm not willing to spend $150 on something I will not use that often. 

So going to the cheap alternative, seeing that these things are plastic, does anyone know how they hold up to fast spinning? (Such as quickly moving the hand over the ball, then doing it 2 or 3 more times to quickly get across the screen). It seems like they wouldn't have enough weight to keep spinning one the hand leaves the ball. These things are designed for slow movements, so any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks! 

I bought a 10 dollar (normally 20) Track ball at comp usa..Its kinda cool glows red and turns green when you hit a button. It works great so far. I am more delicate with it than I would be with an arcade trackball. So far so good. 

Ray 

Thanks Ray. Comp USA is the place I saw the trackball I was asking about, so it's probably the same thing. Any trackball is better than using a mouse or keyboard. Thanks again! 

There is a cylinder looking thing labeled hor. size on my monitor behind some stuff and it is kinda hard to get to. There looks to be some sort of hex nut in the center of this cylinder thing. do I turn the hexnut to shink the horizontal size? 

Help please. I dont want to get electricuted! :) 
Killraven 

I know this probably isn't the answer you want but when I was having trouble with my DL vid I called up a local arcade operator and they where really helpful. maybe you can give that a try. 

Ray 

There is a cylinder looking thing labeled hor. size on my monitor behind some stuff and it is kinda hard to get to. There looks to be some sort of hex nut in the center of this cylinder thing. do I turn the hexnut to shink the horizontal size? 

Help please. I dont want to get electricuted! :) 
Killraven 

Does anyone know how to connect a VGA adaptor to a TV - either through a SCART, Composite or RF connection. This means I could run MAME with the -ntsc option and buy a big cheap 21" TV, as I've given up trying to find a genuine arcade monitor ( I live in Ireland, where it is next to impossible) 

I bought a VGA-2-PAL/NTSC card from ATM in England, but since it only accepts 640x480 output from the VGA, this doesn't work with ntsc output from the VGA port. The display from this card flickers alot, and the colours smear, and is only ok for game play. 

My Amiga can output ntsc and PAL and games running in 320x256 or 320x200 were perfect on TV. 

If anyone knows a device, or where I could get the conversion circuits, it would be great. 

Cheers, 

Philip... 

:) hope that helps 

I figuered out that if my cabinet project cost ruffly 1100 bucks then I need to play 4400 games to break even- carpel tunnel here I come :) 

thats 4 games per dolar! 

hehehe.... If you just make an effort to play some of the emulated games that cost $0.50 you could save yourself the pain... 

but then again Galaga muscle ache is GOOD PAIN yeah! hehe 

When I got my arcade cabinet home and took it apart in the bottom under the coin tray I found a token from 1981 putt putt golf and games...I cleaned it up and I have it stuck to my game marquee, everytime I play MAME I can't help but feel like I'm 'Getting' over. I am winning the fight against the arcade that zapped such a large part of my college fund... 

Ray 

WOW...This was a shock to me I just visited the site this morning..... 

Ray 

They don't even have commercial roms anymore!!! 
Maybe we should get together and hasle the companies hasseling emu sites! 

The site was still up at 1pm central! 

I bet you that it is 3DFX that is hastling daves. He had a section for glide wrappers and as we all know....3DFX is extremely pissed about these Glide Wrappers. 

We shall see....It will get worked out. 

Remember tommorrow is April Fools Day! 

Killraven 

Is it possible to convert a Saitek PC dash command centre with arcade buttons and a joystick ? This unit connects in line with the keyboard, has loads of programmable pads and you can assign differen't keys in software provided with the unit. Can anyone help please. 
Carl from the UK 

Got a web site where we can find out more about this product? 

--- saint 

The website for this device is at www.saitek.com .I have a saitek, but not very good at electronics. Has anybody tried to convert one of these control units? Is it possible? 

 
It depends on what contacts they use below the overlay, the 8-way pad and buttons over on the left are no trouble. 

I am looking for a joystick, or even better, the orginal special joystick made for 720 degrees. The joystick for 720 degrees is rotate only, the stick moves around a flat plastic plate. Anyone? 

Ok, The only place that I could find with this is TNG. There URL is... http://www.tngsales.com/con_rep_atari_720.html 

Other than that, I don't know.. looks kinda expensive. 

-Richard Ragon/CEO HotRod Joystick 

Well, everything's been sorted out and 
the PC2JAMMA project is back. 

ArcadeOS 2.05 is there as is 
cabMAME 0.35 Beta 8 which includes ,amongst other things, 
SVGA support and screen centering. 

http://www.vti.ie/~blewis/pc2jamma.html 

Thanks Brian! 
I'm rushing over there right now to get it! 

Did you get things worked out with that Jamma hardware guy that needed arcadeos to run?! 

Thanks again, 
KR 

I've seen that most people have used the Hagstrom encoder for their projects. My question: 

Isn't it possible to have a DOS/Windows software driver that remaps the keys? 

It would seem that in Windows this would be pretty straight forward. I am not sure of the input methods used by each of the emulator programs to know hard difficult or impossible this would be. 

Thanks. 

I was using my superdooperpooperscooper joystick the other day (based on a keybaord) and i thought, hey wouldn't it be great to play privateer 2 with this? problem is that p2 has a non changeable key setup (cursor keys, space ect). I changed a few things around inside and got my stick wired up for those particualar keys but they jam all the time which wasn't entirely satisfactory. 

Then I dredged the dim dark recesses of my mind way back to 1987 and dos 3, one of the cool features added then was the Prompt command, or rather the added functionality of it. 
Up till then all you could do was change the cursor prompt 
c:\ 
c:> 
mycoolpromptgoeshere:c:\ 
you get the idea.......... 

anyway, with dos 3 they addes the abilty to redefine keys in software using the prompt command, which was pretty cool when keyboards cost around 50 bucks and your enter key was broken. 

That was the only use I could think of for it then except playing halarious practical jokes on people (well they were halarious at the time). But now it would be easy to use the prompt command to remap a previously non-progragramable stick to whatever setup you wanted. (may be good for the hotrod?) 

At least it would be if I could remember the syntax, it went sort of like this 

prompt :[keyyouwanttochange:keytochangeitto]$ 
 

you could also assign multiple keystrokes to one key by adding more colons inside the brackets. 

The problem is I can't remember the exact syntax and it isn't written down anywhere. THe prompt command was still in DOS 6 and in the windows 95/8 dos shell so it probably still works but I can't remember it 

If anyone else remembers anything about it please say so, I'm sure it will come back to me with a little push in the right direction and it would be a realy cool peice of knowledge for the bastardised-keyboard-joystick-scene to have 

regards 
Matt "honest I can use dos, boss" (v) 

I'm off to dig out an old copy of dos and search the manual. 

It's possible with ANSI.SYS to remap keys. One nasty thing people would do is an ANSI bomb. If you saw it on screen, then you were tagged - they'd change the keystrokes sent by dir to be something like format C: ... Let me know if you can't find anything in your DOS search... I'll dig out a DOS manual. 

I used to use ansi.sys to do macros from dos alt-D for dir, alt-t to type TYPE 
One problem, it works *only* at the dos prompt 
and one time I mapped some letter to a macro, A if I recall right and each time you hit A some macro will run. 

good memories of my PC-DOS 2.1 days 

Ok I finally got everything in my cabinet to work but one thing...The Marquee. I Thought about taking out the original one and just putting in a floresent light,. but if anyone can tell me how to wire up the original one I would love to make it work...any Ideas??? 

Thanks 

What cabinet are you using? That information might be in a schematic in the manual for your cabinet, assuming it's the original component. 

Unfortanatly-(see this is why I need spell check:) 
I didn't get any schematics with my cab...On the Marquee itself its says (insert Japanese charecters here and) then yamato 100v 10w 60hz but then underneath that it says 13.0w 10w x 1...?? 

What cabinet was the game originally? 

Radical Radials Mini- Its a JaMMa cabinet if that helps. 1981 nitchubitsu..... 

I've decided to stop working on my flight controler project (for the time being), because I've decided to make my own arcade cabinet (PC and Jamma) completely from scratch (my own design). 
If anyone is interested in making the flight controler, email me and I will send the info I have. 

Tom61@Goplay.com 

you know, that one you were too tired to update, then your isp flaked out. Your site seems to be loading OK again. :) 

It appears that Arcadeos and Cabmame have been discontinued. According to the website someone is selling a commercial PC2JAMMA interface board for use with Arcadeos. 

I actually seen this guy posting and ad in rec.games.video.arcade.collecting for a 75 pound(UK)PCB that interfaces a PC to a JAMMA arcade machine. Basically looks like, he took the circuits created by Brian Lewis and shrunk them down to create the PCB. 

This really sucks, because I was planning on using 
Arcadeos as my frontend and now it will no longer be updated as new version of Mame come out. 

Brian Lewis is the author of Arcade OS and Cabmame. I compiled an unoffical 35B8 cabmame if you are interested. It has not cabmame changes it just the old cabmame source merged into the mame b8 source and compiled. 
Dont worry. If Brian Lewis dumps the project I will talk to him about picking it up. His code is great and the program is excellent. It wont get discontinued...trust me. 

Brian Lewis told me that he was going to be working on some screen centering routines in arcadeos and pass those to cabmame. He has just been real busy. If you are interested in the unoffical cabmame let me know. But as far as I know as of yesterday he never mentioned discontinuing the project. 

BTW: I got arcadeos to compile so if Brian Lewis does not want to work on it anymore I would love to pick it up. I use it in my arcade machine. 

KillRaven 

My information comes straight from the PC2JAMMA homepage: http://www.vti.ie/~blewis/pc2jamma.html. 

It says on the homepage that both ArcadeOS and Cabmame will be unavailable while the commercial PC2JAMMA product is being marketed. Personally, I think the product itself is a great idea, but I think the seller should of collaborated with Brian Lewis, instead of just ripping off his ideas. 

Hopefully this will all get settled. 

I'd like to look at it and see exactly what it is and whats going on. 

My information comes straight from the PC2JAMMA homepage: http://www.vti.ie/~blewis/pc2jamma.html. 

It says on the homepage that both ArcadeOS and Cabmame will be unavailable while the commercial PC2JAMMA product is being marketed. Personally, I think the product itself is a great idea, but I think the seller should of collaborated with Brian Lewis, instead of just ripping off his ideas. 

Hopefully this will all get settled. 

Sorry for the double post. 

Btw, for more info on the PC2JAMMA hardware do a dejanews search for "PC to JAMMA" and select complete archive. It's the first message. 

I don't see this as a permanent shutdown of the project - 
and I wish the guy no ill will if he's making and selling PC->JAMMA adaptors (the hardware isn't just a copy of what I've done anyway) 

I've mailed the guy just to try and clear up one thing about his adaptor, so hopefully it will all get sorted out. 

So - as far as I can see there WILL be a 
cabMAME Beta 8 (or 9 if I miss this beta) 
and an ArcadeOS 2.05 
 
 

I am Glad to here you arn't dropping the project. 
I am Helpping a friend with a coctail cabinet and he is going to do pc2jamma. I'm glad I didn't give hm bad advise. 
 

Thanks 

http://www.gamecenter.com/Consoles/Features/Emulation/?tag=dd.cn.html.0318.05 

Its all about emulation...Its ok.. 
Ray 

I tried to interest them in a follow up article about building arcade controls to complete the emulation experience... So far I haven't heard back. I thought it was a decent article though. 

--- saint 

I've only been into emulation a year and only really got into being a participant and not a spectator in the last month or so...but if CNET is doing an article whats next Dateline? I want to see Stone Philips talk about "Pac Man for free and you thought the Game was over..here's Dawn Frotangilo with a Dateline exclusive..." 

I need help finding a part. You know the transparent, red, plastic, coin slot fitting that is just left of the reject button. Mine is a seperate peice from the rest of the reject button face. Well, I cannot find this part anywhere. I looked at WICO and Happ Controls. It is a WICO coin door but is not on their page. 

What cabinet is the coin door from? Also, have you tried posting a request for the part on rec.games.video.arcade.collecting or rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace? 

--- saint 

Did anyone besides myself, under estimate the cost of building there own MAME machine? 

I started from literally scratch...no old computer lying around, no electrical experiance...Hell I couldn't even get my cutting board in shop to look good when I was a kid! 

I thought I could come out of this with maybe 500 bucks in it.(The budget approved by my wife, any additional moneys are to be spent on my therapy bills, cuz she thought I was Nuts!!) 

Hell the arcade buttons(order more than you think you need) and the actual cabinet were the cheap and easy part of the project. (well MAME was the CHEAPEST part!) 

Anyway all told I ended up with about 1000 bucks, 80 hours and a DAMN MAD WIFE in this thing.(she thinks its pretty cool now...Go and Get Ladybug...all woman like ladybug and tetris;) 

It was certanly all worth, and I could have never done it without arcade@home,this site and james basement bar (he has a awesome startup and shutdown screen you can download). 

So anyway...I got to start this project with the line to my wife that if this wasn't a good idea then why are there so many web page on it. (saints page was my defence-thanks) 

where did everyone else fall into line as far as costs? 

Thanks and look for my web page with cabinet pics soon... 

Well, since my project is still vaporware, I don't have an answer yet, but... 

When I first started to tinker with things, I build the keyboard splitter that Stephan came up with. Parts, tools, mistakes, wrong parts, etc... I ended up at double what it really would have cost had I had a clue what I was doing -- works great though :) 

I also ended up collecting arcade games because of this and have about a grand in the 7 cabinets I have now. My wife is threatening bodily harm if I even consider buying more arcade stuff <grin>. 

--- saint 

You said you started from scratch right?! How far scratch...like building your own cabinet scratch or gutting a pre-existing scratch? 

I bought a cabinet from a local arcade with MAME in mind. I got a working Neo Geo Magical Drop 2 with Samurai Showdown 2 that way if all this didnt pan out I would at least have those two games to play and could probably sell it later. I paid $250 for this. Some say that was too much but I dont feel ripped. The Neo Geo cabinets are setup for 2 players so I got 2 joysticks and 4 buttons a person already mounted and a 19inch monitor. As for the computer I used an old case and mounted a Celeron 300a in it and 64 meg sdram. The video card is not the best but an Intense 3D voodoo and does the job. I think using a computer monitor is what jacks the cost up. Use the one in the arcade machine. Heres where I cut some corners and it works good. I have a 270 meg slow western digital drive and a 4disk 4x changer. I burnt my roms to cd and put the paths to the drives in mame.cfg. This takes a while to load a rom since it has to search for the rom then unzip it off the cd to the hd and then load it but I get around having a big expensive hd in the machine. 

Man...did I get way off topic. I think I have about 500-600$ in my machine and it is worth it. Look at it this way. If you build a shelf inside your machine and put your computer in a case....then its not DEDICATED to the machine but still INSIDE the machine. When you friends come over and you want to play multiplayer PC games then you just take the computer out. Or if you want to run Linux or develop or whatever. 

I paid 75 bucks for a working cabinet...so as close to scratch as I could be...I was gonna build a cabinet, but as I looked around my garage and noticed I have a drill, a hand saw and some plyers...well Man I ain't Mcgyver..I decided to buy a cabinet...It was supposed to be a gutted cabinet but the operator I bought it from said he just didn't have a chance to gut it. sooooooo.. 

And another thing since then I bought a Dragons Lair Machine and am currently hunting for a tron machine...This is like Crack for video game freaks...I am addicted to these old games... 

You're right, it is addictive. Dragon's Lair? I'm jealous :) I'd kill for one of those or an environmental Disks Of Tron. 

I noticed that most everyone that quotes a cabinet, quotes near 800-1000, but no one ever figures in the time involved building it? Dosen't anyone value their time in this. Unless it's just looked at as a hobby.. The time portion can certainly play a part in your marriage and your kids lives, so too me it's very inportant. I don't know about you, but I figure I'm worth at least 50/hr. 100 hrs x 50.. My cabinet is going to cost me 5K! :) 

-Richard 

I just asked my wife and I've got 5 maybe 10 hours in my cabinet and it is all up and running great. Are you counting "playing time"? If you are then I have hundreds of hours.. :) 

Are you counting building one from scratch or gutting and existing? 

I spent about 80 Hr. on my cabinet. For two reasons...1 I really, really didn't want to screw it up and two I have ZERO technical experiance. 

I never touched a soldering gun or wired a common ground. I'm A Mortgage Broker For Christ Sakes! 

I spend a lot of time reading and rereading...now if I made another cabinet, I could probably do it pretty quick. 

Its funny how my wife thought I was nuts and now I catch her playing Ladybug...HE HE. 

Well, lessee... This web site originated from my desire to build a custom cabinet. We're a bit over a year old (Triva: Anyone know when this web site started? It was sometime before March of '98, but I don't recall when), and I count this time in on my project, so I figure I've got about 500 hours into this so far. 

With nothing but a keyboard splitter actually built so far, I figure I'll have roughly 2k hours into it before I get anywhere <grin> 

--- saint 

I must say, you deserve mucho cred for maintaining such an incredible, informative site while not ever completing your own project. Strayed a bit from your goal eh? Get back to work! :) 

Your site has been a tremendous help... Hopefully my cab should be done sometime in the next month. I'll keep everyone posted. 

put up a web site? <grin> 

Oh by the way, 
I hope you didnt think I was bashing you or anything when I was wondering how it took that much time. After I posted that message I started thinking that there was alot more stuff I could do to my machine. The plexiglass over the monitor is scratched...that could be replaced. The trim is all beat to snot. The cabinet could be patched up and repainted...etc. I was just looking at it from an arcade machine-->to playing games point of view. 

Oh about lady bug. I was talking to my wife about your message that all women love ladybudy. She said "I love ladybug ...too". Haha 

Another tip from me. Women love Pacman and Eggs. Some women love Zookeeper and Bezerk. Make sure those are on your machine too. 

:) 

No I didn't think you where bashing me...Hell I originally thought it would take a Saturday to do.. But man to Take EVERYTHING out(and not break it) and to solder, when you have never soldered, and layout of the control panel blah,blah,blah. 

But its complete- one side note I started a NEW control panel for my cabinet because I used the existing panel and add buttons and such but the more I played on it the more I new I could make it better so Thats what I started this weekend- Hopefully By the weekend I'll be able to post pics of the completed machine. 

;) Ray 

You forgot Centipede, Milipede, and Ms.Pacman. :) 

-Richard Ragon/HotRod 

My wife is nuts for Frogger. 

They're nuts for Tetris, too... 

With careful rom planning, I can have the ultimate chick magnet! Yeah! :) 
 

-Mike 

I built my cabinet the manly man's way, purely from scratch. I would in retrospect, just buy a gutted cab which I plan to do when I build my vertical cab. Here's a price breakdown of my cabinet in Can$ dollars. Some of the items I already had such as memory and a HD, so they aren't included. 

3 4'x 8' of 5/8" particle board $ 33.00 
1 3'x 4' sheet of lexan plexiglass $ 20.00 
2 8 way joysticks $ 23.00 
20 horizontal microswitch pushbuttons $ 30.00 
cambridge soundworks speakers $ 60.00 
1 litre can of glossy black paint $ 12.99 
celeron 300a $150.00 
Abit bh6 $150.00 
Case/PS 250Watt $ 45.00 
Monitor 20" $499.99 
MISC (screws, wires, etc) $ 70.00 
----------------------------------------------- 
$1093.98 

Okay heres the situation. 
My parents went away on a weeks vacation.. 
they left the keys to the family car... 

No seriously...No more Fresh prince songs. 

I have a cabinet that I did not gut. I just unhooked stuff and put a computer in it. I do not want to butcher the cabinet if I can avoid it. I want the machine to look and act just like a real arcade machine. I.E. No extra buttons on the console besides P1 and P2 and the action buttons. I have mounted an amp out of an old set of computer speakers and wired up the original arcade speakers and the volume control is inside the door below the coin door. The reset the computer button and power off the computer button is in there to. I just lock and unlock the door to get to these. My coin inputs are actually the coin return buttons. You just reach down and push those to insert coins. Heres the problem I dont want the escape button on the console because it will look like it dont belong. The escape button needs to be readily available...not locked up where the volume control and reset buttons are. I bought a small black momentary button from radio shack and want to mount it somewhere where it wont be acidentally hit but not stand out like a sore thumb. Can anyone offer suggestions? 

thanks. 

I Know on my Cabinet I was able to mount a button 
on the front of the cabinet under the control panel. (I got this idea from Arcade@Home...Pac Man 
cabinet.) 

Just my 2 cents. 

Ray 

(Anyway to get spell check for this message board??) 

I mounted the black escape button under the console on the left side. You cant really see it but if you know where it is you can readily hit it. Thanks for the info. 

I'm going to use the other idea (about putting a switch on the top of the machine) for a pause button. Real arcade machines have pause buttons...right?! :) 

as a matter of fact some arcade games *do* have a pause button/switch, although this is almost never mounted on the outside. (so don't go looking for it.) 

sometimes its wired special, or sometimes its the test switch (if not playing this switch causes "test" mode to be entered, but on some games you can use it during play to "pause" the game), but usually have to hold the button down to keep it paused. 

A lot of cabs have on/off buttons mounted on the top of the cabinet in a little indentation. You can't see them at all unless you stand on a chair. You could mount it there, either replacing the on/off or just adding a new hole. That's not a serious hack to me, and wouldn't detract from the look of the cabinet. 

Let us know what you end up doing :) 

--- saint 

RE: Ray - no, no spell check - this is a free-hosted board, so I have no control over it other than erasing messages :) If I find a place where I can run CGI scripts I'll look for something more sophisticated. (Suggestions?) 

to be able to tweak the video about 1 to 2 inches to the left? 

I got Borland C 5.0 and I'm looking at the source and found the section but I dont know what to change. Has anyone tweaked this or cabmame to their specific card? 

I just compiled it yesterday. If anyone is interested I can upload it somewhere and post the URL. Otherwise I'll just keep it for myself :P 

KR 

If there is interest, and you need someplace to host it, let me know :) 

--- saint 

I was going to wait to see if anyone replied to this message but.... 
No one has said anything to me exactly but I'm sure there would be some interest. Its about 1.5 megs zipped and I dont have anywhere to host it. Email me and let me know if the offer is still good. 

Thanks 
KillRaven 

I cant find the buttons and joystick I want to build my arcade stick with. I am looking for a verry sensitive low profile stick and buttons. I know they must be manufactured some where because I have seen them on aracde machines; although the best example of what I am looking for is illustrated by a namco psx joystick that I saw. That stick was black with yellow buttons and had a short handel with a ball style nob. If anyone knows what I am talking about please help. 

-Orochi 

Wico has the type of joysticks you are looking 
for....go here: 

http://wicothesource.com/home.html 
click on J for joysticks!!! 

-Andy Desak 
Arcade Solutions 

I have a dedicated Williams Defender machine in my garage, and was woundering if anyone wants to buy one, or knows someone who is looking for one as I would like to sell it. The machine plays great, and the monitor is perfect, but it's in need of a 'refurbish'. A perfect classic project for someone restoring one. If you live in the LA or Orange County, CA. area, you can come by and look at it. Email me back at borg@mail.ocis.com if your interested. I would like to get 600 for it. 

Thanks 
-Richard Ragon 

I think you are purposely torturing me a defender game!! One of my favorites but alas you are in CA and I am in Indiana..crap, First The HodRod's Not ready yet and now this..Thanks Alot :) 
 

disclaim:sometimes sarcasim doesn't translate..so please note this is a joke, if it had been an actual slam you would have been notified by the emergancy Brocast System...this is only a goof. 

Defender was one of my all time favorite games too. This one is in great working order, but not spotless. Looks like a perfect fix-up project too me :) 

I know this topic is alittle old but here is a little advice. I purchased from SEARS a 1" 1/8" and a 2 1/4" Bit for cutting "Lite Metal" The two drill bits and the alignment bit cost me a total of 25 bucks and worked great. 

If you don't have a drill press USE LOTS OF CLAMPS and for god sakes WEAR EYE PROTECTION. 

I use a little wd-40 and a low drilling speed and everything turned out great. (soon I'll have up some picture) 

Well just my 2 cents for the day... 
 

Ray 

Drilling through metal is not hard, just 
be sure to be carefull and have patience... 
It might take you about an hour or 2 to drill 
15 holes through 1/8 metal (which is what I 
use...a little thick but very durable) 

The exact name for the bit you need is a metal 
cutting holesaw bit....some better namebrands 
are Greenlee and Milwaukee...get the heavy duty 
ones...you will be better off. 
They may cost a few more bucks...but you only get 
what you pay for. 
The size you need for arcade controls is 1 1/8". 

To keep the holes more accurately lined up you may 
want to hit each mark with a center punch ($4.00) 
before you start to drill...this will help keep it 
centered. 

Instead of WD-40 you would be better off using 
cutting oil instead...be generous with the oil, 
keeping the hole nice and lubricated....(heh, thats what she said :-) 

Don't put a great amount of pressure on the bit... 
this is what will cause it to jam and twist the 
hell out of your wrist (unless you are using a 
drill press...but still go slow and not much pressure) 

And, as Ray already mentioned drill slow and wear 
eye protection...hot metal in the eye does not feel to great!!! 

-Andy Desak 
Arcade Solutions 

Those little slivers suck.. 

-Ricahrd Ragon/HotRod 

I Have a stand up arcade Machine and it runs MAME but sometimes you just wanna sit...Am I The only one thats Exited about the oppertunity for 150 bucks being able to plop down in front of my PC and Bang away on a HOTROD??? The pics alone are making me drewl. I know there are a couple of bugs being worked out, but by GOD I can't wait..I'm Gonna have a heart attack. 

just a little babble for people who understand, because my wife is ready to commit me... 

Expecially since you have an arcade machine already. 
Do like I did and go to Target and buy 2 stools for 19.99 each and sit and play. Why would you want to buy a control panel when you have a full size one already? I dont understand. 

KR 

Because I Want it all...When I have a bunch of friends over we can have more stuff up a running and well The HODROD just looks so Damn cool!!!! 

(I wonder if there are HOTROD Beta Testers and if so where do you sign up:-) 

I converse with the HotRod creator quite often, and I'm with you, I can't wait to see the final product come out :) He's a class act. 

That opinion was free of charge HotRod <grin> 

I don't think anyone can possibly more excited about the release of HotRod than me. We have a deadline on HotRod Joystick which is E3, and we're pushing hard for that. (may or maynot make it) There's so much going on here in the background, and a lot I can't really say right now. Including a joint venture with a major arcade game maker. More too come later on that, but its going to rock the EMU world. 

Plus, your not going to believe this, but it looks like we have yet another product to be released at the exact same time that the HotRod Joystick gets released. Mum is the word right now... But I can promiss you, it's going to knock everyones socks off!! You heard it here on "Build Your Own Arcade Control Center FAQ" first! 

Take care everyone. 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

Ok the HOTROD WEB PAGE clearly said it was moving and to bookmark the new page....guess what I forgot to do...I was so wrapped up with saving my lunch money (and burpin the baby) that I forgot..no neglected to bookmark the new page. How can I show my friends what to be envious of if I can find the Darn PAGE!!! 

One quick question what about making a HodRod Joystick that you can Retrofit into a Arcade Cabinet ? (this intelecual property owned by Ray Iddings, All Rights Reserved. A Tongue-Firmly-In-Cheek-Production) :) 

The HotRod Joystick website is at http://hotrod.aceisp.net 

Once you sean what we've got planed, it'll all click into place! 

You could however buy the HotRod Joystick, and then tear it all apart to reuse everything for a MAME cabinet.. This would void the warranty though :) 

My email to you is bouncing. Is there a new one? :) 

--- saint 

Thats odd.. I just got your letter, and I replyed back aready. 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod 

Yeah, looks like it finally went through :) According to my ISP it took about half a day to get through... Probably Internet demons in the daemons :) 

Hey I bought a cabinet to build my "Super-duper bigger than large Ultimate MAME machine" anyway I got more than I bargained for..I wanted a gutted cabinet with controls and I got a working game..75 bucks..what a deal..So I have a working pcb for RADICAL RADIALS (this game is actually better in real life than in MAME, for some reason in the MAME version all the crap you have to jump while firing is omitted), Anyway I also have this 19" arcade monitor.(this was/is a JAMMA cabinet) any idea what to do with these guts??? Thanks. 

If you don't want those parts I suggest selling at the news group rec.game.video.arcade.marketplace on usenet 

Teach me to post a reply before reading the other replies... :) 

Visit the newwsgroups rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace and rec.games.video.arcade.collecting, and post it for sale. You stand a good chance of finding a buyer, probably get your $75.00 back out of it. 

Also you can try selling it on ebay (http://www.ebay.com), although there's a slight fee for selling. 

Finally, if you have no luck, let me know and I'll mention it on a mailing list I belong to. 

That's a nice deal btw :) I got my Nintendo dual VS. cabinet for the same reason, and then couldn't stand to gut it, so now I have a a dual cabinet with a variety of games for it. Thus was born the sister page of this site (still in beta). 

--- saint 

Thanks for the tip and Hey if you want to let any one and everyone Know Iposted to the marketplace and I have pcb for Radical Radials(its 2 boards), 19" JAMMA Monitor (perfect) and I guess the power supply. No resonable offer refused..you'll need to pay shipping. 
E-Mail (anyone interested) and Saint Thanks again for the info. 

could you find out how much it would cost to send the monitor via UPS to Sedalia, MO? 

I can't get into my web page tonight. My ISP is flaking out. Just FYI in case anyone's wondering and finds their way here :) 

--- saint 

At least you have this message board to fall back on. If you need a temporary mirror, I have have plenty of space on my Goplay account. 

Thanks :) Every now and then my ISP wigs out, but they always get it together again. If they don't in a reasonable amount of time I have other resources to fall back on, but I do appreciate the offer. 

--- saint 

My page on building flight yokes, is partially up. 
It's under the "flight controler" button. 
I listed what I don't have up for that page at 
the bottom of the page. 
I should have more images up tommorow or Wed. 
(I need to have them so I can explain what is needed) 
 

p.s. if the web page looks weird or is blank, wait a minute and reload. This happens when I am updating the pages. 

What is the deal with 360 degree joystics are they more acurate? Is there any point to useing them if you are only playing 8 way directional games? Im planning on bulding a psx controller and the board only has leads for on/off switches. Would I even be to make such a stick work? Does anyone know of an analouge stick I could use to make my arcade controller work with the psx analouge stick? 

-Orochi 

Here's how the 360's work. Basicly it's exactly like a 8 way joystick with a few differences. Theoreticly it sould last forever though, as there are not contacts like switches which wear. You hookup the joystick the same way you would the normal joystick, but you'll need 5vdc power and gnd to make it operate. 

Don't know anything about a PSX type set up though.. Sorry. 

-Ricahrd Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

I have occasionaly seen some very low profile short joystics. They seem to be more acurate and have a lighter feel to them, they are also shorter and you dont have to move them very far to get a reaction. The stick I saw was acompanied by buttons of a similar nature. If anyone know where I can get these parts please make a posting or email me at mcnett@cruzio.com 

-Orochi 

What kind of handle did the one you saw look like? 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

It was a ball type handle and the stick in all was shorter than most Ive seen. It seemed to play a lot softer (although this type is probably less durable). I have a sneeking suspicion that it is a european style controller but Im not shure. Also I've seen a psx stick made by namco that looks similar ( I actualy like this one better) it was black had a yellow ball handle it was also short and had yellow b uttons. 

-Orochi 

I'm going to the upcoming E3 show here in the Los Angeles Convention Center, May 13-May 15 1999. Just woundering if anyone is thinking about attending this show? (or are you picketing this show) Im sure we'll see some info on classic games, as well as the newest game releases. The website is @ http://www.e3expo.com/ It's an ISDA show, so I hope this doesn't piss people off. 

But there's no way I can. Are you going to be vending/displaying, or just visiting? I'd love to see how you'd do as a vendor there. 

--- saint 

Humm.. Yes. Thats the plan anyways. We gearing up for a booth there. Sounds wild, but we may be in the Capcom booth :) 

But we'll see what happens... before the show, we'll make an annoucement.. 

Why can't you make it? If it's a place to stay, I can take care of that.. 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

Heh. Wife, 2 year old, second child due in June, new job, etc... All that stuff that gets in the way of having fun <grin> 

--- saint 

(Did I mention dog and cat and new house?) 

I'm going to bring the wife, and my 3 year old is going to grandmas house :) 

-Richard Ragon 

I dont know what it means to you but I plan on going. I hope it helps you in some way to know that. 

-Orochi 

It will have: 
1.How to make your own flight controller with throttle, rudder pedals, yoke (with attitude controls), and 4 buttons hooked to joystick port(no joystick or gamepad needed) 

2. How to make a keyboard version of the above(keyboard hack) 

3. how to break down a controler into elements, so you can recreate it in a PC version 

4. using output of the par. port to control consoles, arcade boards, etc. 

http://people.goplay.com/Tom61 

if that link gives you troubles try 

http://mypage.goplay.com/Tom61 

my page on building a flight yoke is up, except 
for a few things(listed on the page), its 
under the "flight controller"image 

Tom61's page 

Is it possible to use pc2tv(using the composite attachment and a RF modulator) and run MAME or any other emulator. The -ntsc option in MAME dose not seem to work. I can't seem to attach my arcade monitor, so if someone could help me with this it would realy help, 
Peter 

Try this address, it should help you out. http://www.vti.ie/~blewis/pc2jamma.html 

Is arcadeos what everybody is using to interface to an arcade monitor or is some other vgatotv driver like vgatv98085.zip a better solution? 

Arcadeos seems to work really good....with MAME games. Supposidly the combination of cabmame and arcadeos should allow me to run all mame games. I have tried about 20 and so far Joust does not work but Tapper does...hummm. Also Arcadeos on a vga monitor launches callus and I can play games at 320x200. If I hook up the arcade monitor and try to launch the screen just flashes for a sec thats all. In the log it says ffight launched ffight ended all in the same second. Humm again. If I launch system16 in 320x200 the screen is all shaky and screwed. Raine is the same way. 
Do I need to have SDD loaded? I thought that it shouldnt be. I am exhausting myself trying to work all this out. 

Please help. 
Killraven aka Eric 

I guess my answer is "NO". There is nowhere for you to get any help now go away. 
 

So away I go..... 

You win some, you lose some. Obviously no one here has the answer you are looking for. Did you email the author and if so what did he say? 

One thing you have to bear in mind is that htis is a fairly new hobby... There aren't a lot of readily available answers. 

--- saint 

I got my new Happ Catolog the other day, and guess what I found? Arknoid replacment spinners as a brand new product! wow, kewl! 

I little on the pricey side though.. $110, includes knob, brackets, and opto board. 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

Yeah, I saw that also...like you said expensive! 

I was thinking 
about getting one to try out. 

If you get one first could you tell us 
how it is? 

Thanks, 
Andy Desak 
Arcade Solutions 

Sure, you bet. Good chance I might design, and manufacture one myself though. :) 

-Richard Ragon 
-HotRod Joystick 

I designed and built my own spinner for my controller. All ball bearing and machined from solid 303 stainless steel! I gaurantee you never saw one this heavy-duty in the arcades! 

Now all I need is the rest of the unit.. :) 

-Richard Ragon 

As soon as I get off my lazy behind and post them <grin>... Thanks Joey! 

See main home page for URL. 

--- saint 

I have like probably all of you, a monitor behind a sheet of plexiglass. The plexiglass is clean (I cleaned it) but the monitor has 4inches of dust on it. Can I remove the plexiglass front or does the monitor need to be removed? 
If the monitor does need to be removed how long after the power is off can I move it without getting electricuted?! 

Thank you for humoring my stupid questions. We all have to learn somewhere. 

Eric 

Cleaning the monitor is easy, This is general maintenence and usally it's just a matter of undoing the control panel on the game, and you should be able to lift out the plex-glass or glass without tools. (depends on the cabinet) 

You don't even have to turn the game off either! It's no different from cleaning you computer monitor. 

Hope this helps ya 
-Richard Ragon/CEO HotRod Joystick 

I look forward to doing this when I get home. 

Well actually you use a button but its the coin return. I used the push button coin return to deposit quarters. Gives you the feel of reaching down to put a quarter in but not insert a quarter. I bought these mini lever switches at radio shack yesterday for 1.89 each. Superglued (haha ...only way I could think of, lets see how long that lasts) them to the metal braket right behind the plastic lever that pushes down when you push the return. In my machine this white plastic lever goes down at and angle and pushed the lever switch and insert the coin. Works really nice. I'm sure somebody has done this before but I thought I would share the idea. 
If anyone is interested I will post the exact part number of the switch. 

Eric 

Since this board has been active <grin> the last couple of days I thought Id ask how anyone got callus setup in their cabinet. The problem I am running into is the insert coin for all emus other than callus is 3 and not F3. Also in system 16 the escape key is END not esc. How did you guys get around this? Dont give me the obvious "Wire up another button for that key". I know somebody has dealt with this and has a solution. 

Thanks. 

Eric 

Well, hopefully someone will come up with a more elegant solution, but have you considered just wiring multiple keystrokes to the same button? I.E. have both the 3 and F3 off of one arcade button. I *think* this is different than the answer you didn't want :) 

How I plan to avoid this kind of thing when I finally design mine is to use a keyboard encoder, and when I switch programs a batch file will run that will swap out keysets so that I have a consistant interface for the user, with the behind the scenes part being hidden from them. 

--- saint 

I had tryed to do the multiple keys to one button. But when the button is pushed the electrons just run down the other wire and all over the keyboard pushing other keys :) 

Do you know what I mean?! 

Eric 

Did you try blocking feedback using diodes? Discussions on that in the inputs section... 

Even if you manage to get the two keys 'F3' and '3' working with one button, I would not recommend it. While in Callus 'F3' is the coin drop. But in MAME this is the reset key!!! 

Read the readme that comes with Callus about the -altkeys parameter that changes the keyboard map. 
Unfortunately, it maps 1-4 as start keys and 5-8 as coin inputs. Edit the -setkey parameter in the callus.ini to remap 3,4 to coin. Your gonna have to know the scancodes for 3 and 4 to do this. I think the scancode is 1 more than the numeric value so it would 4 and 5. 

The system16 problem is easy, I promise. :) Just hand edit the system16.ini and under keys set exit=1 (ESC). 

Thank you very much. I did read the callus INI over and over and the readme.txt 

But...the information pertaining to setkey <start> and <coin> were off the screen to the right and I never saw them. Haha. 

Besides even if I did see it I wouldnt have understood what to do but thats to your explanation of what was required (scan code of key) I d/led scancode.exe from saints page. You were indeed correct about the number "3" being scancode "4" etc. etc. 

Thanks. 

Thanks also to the diodes answer. That will come useful later in my project...no offense but a software solution is usually better (easier) to implement in my case! :) 

Killraven 

Alternatively, you can use the -escexit option 
of System16. 

Also, THANKYOU for the Callus info! I'd read the 
docs and played with it, but I just couldnt get 
it working. I know now what I did wrong :) 

you might try a double pole/double throw switch and wire it like this: 

F3+ |..| F3- 
joy but+|..|joy but- 
3+ |..| 3- 

+/- are just each side (no need to get the multimeter) 

I have not yet put this into effect (planning on it), but there's no reason why it shouldn't work. 

Wire up the buttons do a Data Switch. The most convenient way is to pick up a 2-way Printer switch, and 2 Male-to-Male Printer cables. Wire the buttons up to the Input, keys 1-4 to one output and F1-F4 to the other. 

Instead of killing a few cables, you can also purchase female connectors w/ little solder feet.. I've seen 'em at computer shows, and they may have them at radio shack. It just seems a bit easier and cleaner to cut a cable in half and use the existing wire than to deal with all of that soldering (I've had enough!). 

All you'll have to do is turn a dial to choose between Callus & Mame. 
 

If you need any further explanation, feel free to drop me an e-mail. 
 

I put a lot of thought into it, and it seems to be the only way I can avoid adding additional buttons (Too messy). 

-Mike 

Im trying to make an arcade style controller for my psx but I cant find any where that sells the "guts" of a psx controller. In the past I have bastardised perfectly good controllers for their soft chewy endtrails but this is an expensive and messy operation, if I can only find a place that sells a board made for this sort of thing I'le be set. If anyone can help please respond or email me. 

-Orochi 

I saw a page not long ago detailing how to hack a psx controler, and still be functional. A 15 pin connector on the back to hooked into the arcade controler, and when you wanted to use it normally you just disconnected it. Besides all pages that I've seen say that you should use cheap (around $10) psx contolers, because the well made ones are harder to hack 

goto Lanser's page 

I don't see what all the fus is about. If by "expensive" you mean "genuine sony" then I couldn't agree less. Of course since I have only ever pulled appart the sony model I have no basis for comparison :-) but I assure you there is nothing difficult about the sony pad, provided you know which end of the soldering iron is hot. 

Of course you are probably saying "but sony pad costs twice what one of those cheap aftermarket ones does, why would any sane person want to use one?" Simple, i'm not sane! 

Cheap ones are easier to hack because they usually have exposed contacts on the traces, where as in the Sony pad you have to scrap off the insulator from the traces(go to the page I mentioned in the last post to find out more)







If your psx controller had extra contacts, please tell me the model number of your pad (SCPH-????)

OK, Now I see what you mean all that scraping and drilling and messing around (at least the traces didn't lift off the board) 

Next time I'm heading for the cheap chinese made section of the store :-) 

regards 
matt 

Does anybody own one of these cards? I am having a hard time getting it to work with a 19" wells/gardner arcade monitor. As well, I can not get it to run any emulator with my television attached to the card. I have tried -ntsc option in mame. Could someone help me? 

From what I have read that card should be fine. How are you hooking up the arcade monitor? Through a butched vga cable ? If so, what leads are attached to the monitor in what locations. 

I am trying to hook the vga cable directly to the wires coming out of the monitor. The composite sync, the ground, and the red, green, and blue. I always come up with a "jumping" picture where I can barley make out the bottom of the screen. So I am receving output from the video card. I think I might be hooking the sync up wrong, I simiply split the composite sync to fit the horz. and vert. sync of the vga cable. 

I hope you are using arcadeos with incabinet=1 or some other proggy that lowers your freq to 15hz instead of 30+hz! You will toast that arcade monitor. Let me know if you are and we can pursue it from there. 

I am using arcadeos with incabinet=1, except it is still giving me problems. Should I reboot my machine in MSDOS?, or does it even matter? and my card is an ATI EXPERT@play 98, if it matters that it is a 98. Does it make a differnce to be soldered right onto the JAMMA board? 

Windows 98/95 do a lot of screwing with video modes that is okay with a reg monitor but not an arcade monitor. I run my arcade monitor using arcadeos in pure DOS. No univesa...no fancy vga programs....just DOS. 

Sounds like you are driving it too hard. I cant speak for Brian (the wizard behind arcadeos) but the way his program works is intercepting video calls and substituting the video bios. I dont thing that will work right is win98/95. 

Let me know if this helps. 

Tried what you suggested, still no luck. I get the big line(about 1/3 of the screen) constantly jumping. My monitor model is 19K4921 if it helps. I don't know what to do next. 

I found a cheap trackball the other day at Compusa. It was on sale for 9.99 (reg. 19.99). 
It was a compusa house brand. It is a little cheap and I wouldn't want to use it for an input device but as an arcade track ball for my mame 
controler it rocks. It has a nice big ball on it. I haven't tried ripping it apart yet to put it in my cabinet but doesn't seem like it would be that hard. Anyway, for those of us on a budget this worked pretty well for me. 'Scuse me while I get back to millipede and coors light bowling :) 

I just got a NEO GEO machine and am using arcadeos as my frontend. All but one thing is awesome on the 19inch monitor. I am floating right now. So excited! 

I hooked up the horizontal output from the vga connector to -horizontal and the vertical output from vga to -vertical. My image on my screen is a little off center. My question is: 

My arcade monitor has -horizontal and -vertical but also +horizontal and +vertical. Which should I hook the vga to? 
Will this effect the onscreen picture? 

Thanks guys. 
KillRaven 

Hi, 
you've wired the thing in right - (you need negative sync, which is what you've connected) 

I had a few people get back to me about clipping on the left side of the screen with ArcadeOS 2.03 

This is now fixed in ArcadeOS 2.04 

http://www.vti.ie/~blewis/pc2jamma.html 

You made need to center the image with the monitor 
controls, but once you've done it all games should run centered (including all the games running in the extra NTSC resolutions in cabMAME) 

It was off center on the left side about 2 inches in 2.03 and I updated to 2.04 and it is still off about 2 inches. I have the horizontal adjusted as far as I can and I still have about 1 and a half inches of black on the left. 
Sorry to bother you but your program is really great and I would love to get a centered image to show off to my friends. 

Also one other question. I loaded bad dudes and centered the top and bottom of the screen to that by the controls on the back of the monitor. Looks good. But if I look at your test pattern it is very small with about 2 inches of black all the way around it. Except at the left :) 
Is that normal? 
If you need any info let me know and I will be glad to test for you. I am using a Intense 3D voodoo rush card. I may just change out the card if I can find something else. But I really dont have anything else and it is a good card. 

Thanks in advance. 
Eric 

Just in case anyone is interested...if you are 
building your own joystick or cabinet. 

Mazzco has colored t-molding 
black .55/foot 
red .55/foot 
blue .29/foot 
chrome .70/foot 
black gold .55/foot 

call for a free catalog...1-800-292-4491 

-Andy 
Arcade Solutions 
http://members.home.net:80/hutt1/arcade.htm 
Custom built joysticks for MAME and game systems. 
Custom built arcade and MAME cabinets 
 
 
 

Called and ordered my catalog today. Very nice people, no hassles. 

Right, has anyone built the interface to try it out? 
If so please share your exprences with us 

Matt(v) 

I have a Gauntlet cabinet, and am replacing the guts with a PC running MAME. The inputs aren't going to be a problem, and the audio should be easy, but what should I do about video? 

I am starting with a clean slate- I will buy a new monitor (the old one has burn in), and will be building a new PC (i.e., I can go with any video card). The options seem endless, but a monitor that accepts standard VGA input sounds the easiest. I was looking at the Wells-Gardner U3100 as seen on the Happ website (http://www.happcontrols.com/gaming/monitors/49083000.htm). Anyone used this, or have a suggestion on what I should use? I need 19" 

Help would be GREATLY appreciated... 

Thanks! 

You will be better off with a Neo-tec monitor. 
You can get a 19" SVGA for about the same price 
and unlike the WG it has unlimited colors. 

You can see the specs here: 
http://www.neotecgraphic.com/nt-1938.htm 

You can get this from Happ but it is not in their 
catalog but they can order it for you. 
Talk to my sales rep, Sylvia. 

-Andy 
Arcade Solutions 
Custom built arcade, MAME and Cherry Master cabinets 
Custom built joysticks for any game system and MAME 
http://members.home.net:80/hutt1/arcade.htm 

take a look at my site. 
Keyboard joystick (ITA) 

http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Valley/4585/index.html 

Did anyone else that reads this board ever play this great arcade game. made by capcom in 1994 (or was it 1996?) anyway..... 
4 players at once, spells, items, multiple paths, shops, quests. 

Oh that was the other cool thing, there were 6 different characters and two different allignments for each character with different spells ect (total of 12 different characters) 

This is still by far the coolist aracde agame around, gauntlet legends comes close but I don't like this new fangled 3d stuff. Ah for the good old days, when teenage mutant ninja turtles was the latest and greatest, Captain commando was pretty good too. 

Actualy I have thought of an on topic question. 
What was the greatest number of buttons used in a four player game? The most that springs to mind is 5 per player for Tower of doom. 

im just ranting now, time to do some work 
Matt(v)